Kilar Rest House. John Keay and Christina Noble on the way to Kashmir first trek.

Christina Noble crossing the Chandrabhaga in a ‘jhula’. The first bit is OK, you come whooshing down, but then it stops and you hang over the raging torrent until someone begins to pull you, slowly, up the other side.

Chandrabhaga. Dorze, the chaukidar of Thirot Rest House and his friend.

Chandrabhaga, interior of the temple at Tindi.

Shrine to the Devi at the top of Sinthan Pass between Tisa and Pangi, 12.500ft, 3,784 metres.

Goats passing through oak woods on the way up to the Sach Pass. I have a large print of this in my bedroom.

Chandrabhaga valley, after a gruelling days walk through the devastation we were relieved to arrive at this Rest House, Raoli. Previous travellers had used some of the floorboards for fuel